Getting Baltimore (before it gets you)

Unfortunately, when someone says, “I’m from Baltimore,” the usual reaction is, “poor devil.”  And certainly the trepidation was reinforced by the recent hit television series The Wire. Though hailed by critics as the greatest TV drama of all time, the rampant violence in each episode didn’t exactly promote the town’s newest nickname, Charm City; it rather kept alive the old one, Mobtown. So why, you may very well ask, do I think Baltimore is the “bee’s knees?”  

After burning Washington, DC to the ground, the British tried to do the same to Baltimore – no such luck.  The boys at Fort McHenry kicked the English Redcoats back down the Patapsco River and then wrote a song about it (the Star Spangled Banner).  Sure, that was a long time ago but the Brits haven’t been back. And if that’s not enough to allay your fears, how about these laws that are still on the books.  In Baltimore it’s illegal to mistreat oysters, one can’t throw hay bales from a second-story window, and if there was ever a concern about someone walking into a movie with a lion, forget about it, it’s against the law.  And here are some more reasons why I love calling B-more home.

Right in the heart of the city is Spirits of Mount Vernon, my one and only wine shop.  There is: wine by the glass while shopping, Friday night complimentary (meaning free) wine tastings, local entertainment, friendly crowds, wonderful views, and a great big dog!

My friend Vickie and her team are extremely knowledgeable and always helpful. Spirits isn’t pretentious because it’s a part of the neighborhood and after one visit, you will be too. 

Need a haircut, no better place than the Beatnik Barber Shop.  Situated on 241 West Read Street, it’s the place where, “cool never goes out of style.”  My friend Pete and his cutting crew always deliver a quality styling.  But if you have to wait, and it’s never long, there’s great music and always conversation ranging from, “the rise in housing prices to the decline of western civilization.”

And how about your pet?  We all treat our critters like family members and so do the folks at Fisher Pet Care.  My friend Matt and his team have been providing top-notch professional pet care since 2002.  Dog walking, cat care, overnight pet sitting, feeding, transporting, hell they’ll even water the plants and pick-up your mail – these guys are great!

Of course, no travel journal is complete without restaurant and bar recommendations; so, here are three of my favorites, by neighborhoods, worth visiting.

Mount Vernon

Located at the corner of Cathedral & Eager Streets, City Cafe delivers a scrumptious regionally inspired American cuisine, in a setting best described as a “friendly city vibe.”  

It’s unquestionably a neighborhood place but with dishes like their Wild Rock Fish and Steak Frites it’s no mystery why folks come here from all over town.  From a quick cup of coffee to a delicious full meal, the City Cafe never lets you down.

Fells Point

Sitting on the old waterfront in Fells Point is my favorite spot for brunch, Kooper’s Tavern.  Voted Best Brunch by Baltimore’s City Paper, start with a Shana’s Famous Bloody Mary and follow it with an Omelet (Crab or Creole or Juke Joint “Mojo” Pulled Pork).  If you’re leaning more carnivore Kooper’s award winning burger selection packs a wallop.  Everything from the Kooper’s B.Y.O.B. to the Elvis got the Blues is first rate!

Hampden

Located right on The Avenue (36^th Street) in Hampden, 13.5% Wine Bar truly makes city life a treat.  We love to sip a glass and chat while watching the life in Hampden parade by the glass storefront.  Though there are more than 40 wines by the glass and 200 bottle selections, you’re never overwhelmed.  The staff is knowledgeable, helpful and, most of all, friendly.  If a beer or cocktail is more in order, no worries, 13.5% is well stocked.  And yes, there is a complete menu from the tasty Fig & Onion Baked Cheese Dip to delicious Grilled pork Chop with braised cabbage and coffee scented squash.

This effort barely scratches the surface of Baltimore’s being and all it has to offer.  With so many neighborhoods and so many different cultures, just going across town is an international experience.  Believe me, if the strength and warmth of Baltimore's character doesn't enchant you, its eccentricity will.

Boquete, Panama, what's not to like?

It all started with House Hunters International, as so many things do around our home.  I was upstairs in the office when my wife called up the back staircase, “Honey, have you ever heard of Boquete?”  “No,” said I.  But a quick poke at Mr. Google unleashed goo-gobs of websites, blogs, and photos about this lush mountain retirement paradise in Panama. 

Retirement?  I’m only… uh, … I’m too young to retire, I thought.  But luckily I didn’t dismiss it altogether.  After a little more reading and a bit of rumination the possibilities of this little highland town becoming a future home began to grow on me.  Next thing you know, I’m looking at real estate and thinking about how great it would be to live in Boquete, Panama.

Of course this is a common occurrence. Folks see beautiful places and think it would be wonderful to live there, like our friend who dreams of moving to Paris and writing a novel.  Never-mind the fact he freely admits he has no intention of writing, but the thought of sitting at some sidewalk café, wearing a beret, smoking, and talking endlessly about the book he’s going to write fuels his artistic dream.  And so it is with Boquete; but dream or not? 

Boquete, Panama is a lush mountain hamlet straddling the Caldera River with about 19,000 residents living in the Boquete district and near 3,000 being permanent foreign inhabitants.  Most are from the US and Canada with a sprinkling of Europeans.  The weather is sublime (70s and 80s year round), the cost of living is phenomenal (40% to 50% less than the US), and the natives are friendly.  So far, what’s not to like? 

We made our first journey, of three, in 2009 and each time was better than the last.  There are a number of nice places to stay but on each visit we chose the beautiful Coffee Estate Inn (http://www.coffeeestateinn.com/index.html).  

Located on the east side of town, this exclusive hotel accommodates six guests in three bungalows, each with spectacular views of the Baru volcano and the Boquete valley.  Our friends Jane and Berry are gracious hosts, extraordinary cooks, and just a lot of fun to hang out with.

Another plus for this small town is the number of nice restaurants.  Two of particular note are the Panamonte Hotel and The Rock.

Photo by Andrew Harper

Enjoying the full dining experience at the Panamonte (http://panamonte.com)

starts with drinks at the Fireside Lounge.  Around 6 PM, the bartender uses a flame-thrower to ignite two comforting fireplaces, one indoor and the other on the outdoor covered patio.   If it happens to be raining, the outdoor seating is a treat.  Of course, it’s easy to stay right there but moving on to dinner does not disappoint.

Small and well appointed, the dining room has the feel of a comfortable elegance.  Add to that the superior service, the extensive wine list, and the delightful creations of the award winning Executive Chef Charlie Collins and it’s easy to see why it has been recognized as the best Restaurant in Panama.

Quick on the heels of the best in Boquete (and maybe Panama) is The Rock (http://www.therockboquete.com).  By priding itself on dedication to local producers, its menu hasn’t gone wrong.  Dishes like Boquete Trout ‘Navarro’ and Rock’s Signature Angus Flank Steak provide a culinary “slam-dunk.”  Mix that with the outdoor seating near the Caldera River and Monday Night Jazz – how can you miss? 

One other important consideration for visiting Boquete is the weather.  There are only two seasons, the rainy and the dry.  The wet weather starts around May and last for about seven or eight months.  Early in the season it’s just a few clouds rolling over the mountains for an occasional afternoon shower; but as the months march on, so does the frequency and length of the rainfall.  For people like me, who love the rain, it’s fantastic, for others, who don’t, not so much.  To learn more, visit boqueteweather.com (http://www.boqueteweather.com).