“Eastern Slavonia? Sure, I’ll go,
where is it?” On the other end of the
phone there was silence; then the lady from the State Department said, sardonically,
Yugoslavia.
In the summer of 1996, after volunteering for the United Nations mission in the former Yugoslavia, I stepped off the plane on to the hot tarmac in Zagreb, Croatia. But my first impression of the old country was one of perplexity. I’d never been to a state in civil war. The airport looked abandoned; there was no hustle and bustle of air travel, just an eerie silence and waves of tall grass bending to the wind. Fortunately, the United Nations efforts were successful and the fighting changed to peace; what also changed were my feelings. I warmed to the hospitality of the people and their peculiar Balkan ways but it was visiting Dubrovnik that captivated me.
For more than 1000 years, Dubrovnik
has been the jewel along Croatia’s Dalmatian coastline. Yet several years after
the conflict, “war-torn” was a tough prefix to scrap keeping most folks from venturing
a toe into the former Yugoslavia.
In 2001 we were leaving a London hotel to catch a flight to the Balkans. Our concierge asked us about our follow-on destination and we told him Dubrovnik, Croatia. This was met with an odd look, then he said, “Well, don’t get shot.” Fortunately, that misperception about Croatia was laid to rest long ago letting old Dubrovnik shine, once again, as the Pearl of the Adriatic.
In 2001 we were leaving a London hotel to catch a flight to the Balkans. Our concierge asked us about our follow-on destination and we told him Dubrovnik, Croatia. This was met with an odd look, then he said, “Well, don’t get shot.” Fortunately, that misperception about Croatia was laid to rest long ago letting old Dubrovnik shine, once again, as the Pearl of the Adriatic.
Today cruise liners deposit
nearly a million folks a year on the shores of Dubrovnik. During the apex of
the season, hundreds of tourists swell the streets almost daily. As soon as one
boat leaves another takes its place and the cycle repeats. So, knowing the cruise
ships schedule can be helpful for planning a stay:
If you do visit, I have a few
recommendations:
Where to stay? There are many
fine hotels but my personal favorite is the Villa Dubrovnik http://www.villa-dubrovnik.hr/. Situated just outside the Old City, all rooms
have spectacular sea views. And from April until October guests can take the hotel’s
Venetian Vaporetto Speedboat shuttle to the city as well as to some of the
local islands.
Where to eat? For an essence of
the cosmopolitan coupled with exquisite dining, the Restaurant Nautika is the
spot www.nautikarestaurant.com/.
Located along the western entrance to the Old City, the kitchen is supplied
with the daily catch of local fishermen. Also, when dining there, don’t be
surprised if you see some head of state, or a movie star, or the Pope even.
When to visit? It all depends on
your mood. If you like lively activity, then the summer festival is for you www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. Music,
theatre, and art invigorate the warm nights as well as a nightcap at one of the
many restaurants along the ancient Placa street. If a more halcyon setting is
desired, late fall and winter offer the right mix of tranquility and splendor
in the Old City. Under these atmospherics, an artist can find inspiration by
simply living day-to-day.
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